This pattern-making book by Italian Author  Fernando Burgo, titled “Il Modellismo”, is a comprehensive technical manual used widely in fashion schools—especially within the Istituto di Moda Burgo system. It is considered both a training textbook and a professional reference for garment pattern drafting.
 
Overview of the Book
Full title: Il Modellismo – Pattern Making Book
Authors: Fernando Burgo & Stefano Burgo
Length: ~460+ pages
Language: Bilingual (Italian & English)
Use: Both sartorial (custom tailoring) and industrial patternmaking
 
At its core, the book teaches how to draft garment patterns manually, translating fashion designs into precise construction templates.
Core Approach & Method
The book is built around the Burgo proportional system, which:
 
Uses body measurements and proportional relationships to draft patterns
Ensures accurate fit and scalability across sizes
Bridges traditional tailoring techniques with industrial production methods
 
This makes it highly technical and systematic—less about creativity alone, and more about engineering garments correctly.
 
What the Book Teaches
 
1. Foundations
Taking body measurements
Ease allowance (fit adjustments)
Drafting basic blocks/slopers (bodice, skirt, sleeve)
These fundamentals are essential because all advanced designs are derived from them.
 
2. Pattern Construction (Extensive Garment Library)
The book covers a wide range of garments, including:
Skirts: straight, flared, pleated, circular
Dresses: fitted, draped, princess line, eveningwear
Shirts & Blouses: multiple collar and sleeve variations
Trousers & Jumpsuits: casual to tailored
Jackets & Coats: structured tailoring and outerwear
Lingerie & Swimwear
Menswear and children's wear
 
This breadth makes it more like a pattern encyclopedia than a basic guide.
 
3. Advanced Techniques
Dart manipulation (design transformation)
Pattern corrections and fitting adjustments
Pattern grading (scaling sizes)
Industrial concepts (CAD/CAM basics, production workflow)
 
 Who It’s For
Fashion design students
Pattern makers and tailors
Professionals in garment production
Serious self-learners (with some technical discipline)
Although the language is described as clear, the content is dense and technical, so beginners may find it demanding.
 
Key Strengths
Extremely comprehensive and structured
Strong technical presentation
Covers both creative design translation and production realities
Industry-relevant (used in professional training programs)
 
Limitations
Can feel overwhelming for beginners
Some users note complex diagrams 
Less step-by-step “hand-holding” compared to modern beginner books.
 
Bottom Line
Fernando Burgo’s Il Modellismo is a technical blueprint system for pattern making. It trains you to think like a pattern engineer, turning fashion sketches into production-ready patterns with precision.